Saturday, 24 August 2013

THE NO-POO METHOD

The NO-POO Method

So you may have heard the phrase 'no-poo' going around recently. It's an alternative hair washing method that's suitable for... wait for it... EVERYONE!
(NB, this is similar in a way to cowashing which is usually for dark, coarse hair)


Some of the benefits of the no-poo method include:
·         more body
·         easier to style
·         less oily hair
·         less frizz and fly-aways (great for curly hair)
·         added shine
·         SAFE for dyed hair
·         GREAT for grey hair (commercial shampoos can cause grey hair to yellow)
·         wash hair less often as your scalp will no longer be over producing oils (I know I already mentioned that, but it’s a really good point)
·         no chemicals on your hair, scalp or washing down the drain (the Earth will love you too! And all the other hippy shit)
·         more money in your pocket – let’s face it, baking soda and vinegar cost pennies per wash (a big difference from those fancy-looking shampoos and conditioners)
·         new hair growth (for some people) –follicles are no longer clogged with oil and debris.



Part of the reason the no-poo method has so much hype at the moment is because more and more people are finding out what's in our shampoos. Head and Shoulders Anti-Dandruff shampoo has a chemical (a type of silicone) in it which is used for getting rid of oil in factories -now that doesn't sound too good for the scalp. The reason they work is because you have to keep using it to keep the dandruff at bay. The way you can tell it's not working is that if you switch shampoo then the dandruff comes back.

The no-poo method actually helps your scalp heal itself and return to a natural PH which means that the skin isn't bombarded with man-made chemicals and eventually you're able to produce your own natural oil that protects your head and helps for a lasting shine.

Now I'm not going to lie, the first few weeks of the no-poo method are actually really hard to get through. You find your first wash was great and then it seems to go a bit greasy or dry after that. What's happening is your hair/scalp is essentially going through withdrawal and detox to get use to going o'natural. It's a transition process and it takes a different amount of time for each person.

One thing I do recommend for this is buying a clarifying shampoo. Preferably one that says 100% natural. Like I was saying above, silicone and other igrideidents ending in “zane” “xane” “cone” or “conol” aren't water soluble and don't leave your hair when you wash your shampoo out. That's where the clarifying shampoo comes in, perhaps use it for a week instead of your old one first.

Now what you need is:
·         Baking Soda
·         Apple Cider Vinegar
·         Water
·         Squirt Bottle (or just a empty bottle you had water in before)

Why do we use baking soda?
Baking soda has a million great uses, but in regards to the no-poo method it takes away the oily build up at the top of your scalp as well as helping to get rid of dust and dead skin.
Why do we use Apple Cider Vinegar?
It's a natural moisturiser. It is ideal for dry hair and scalp.
Now different people have different ways of using the ingredients.
If you have very dry hair, it's best to use both but if you have very greasy hair it's best to use just baking soda and then once every week or two weeks use the apple cider vinegar if you feel you need it.
What I personally find best is
1.       1tbsp of Baking soda + 250ml water (mix till dissolved)
2.       1/4 cup Apple Cider Vinegar 250ml water (mixed till dissolved)

Directions for baking soda
1.       Apply the solution on your hair and massage gently.
2.       Rub your hair the same way you rub your regular shampoo, until it feels smooth. Since baking soda has no soap base, there will be no lather.
3.       When you are through, rinse off your hair under the shower.
Your scalp produces natural oil and so there may be no need for conditioning. However, baking soda can leave your hair very dry and give your scalp a scaly look, and so you may consider applying a moisturizer on your hair. Baking soda is good for people who have an oily scalp. People who have a dry scalp may need to consider using extra ingredients, and this is where cider vinegar comes in.

Directions for apple cider vinegar
1.       Pour or spray the vinegar/water solution on the length of your hair, focusing on the ends. Leave this on for a minute or two before rinsing.
 (the vinegar may smell quite strong while you’re using it but don’t worry, your hair will have no odour once it dries).


Always if possible allow your hair to dry naturally.

Dealing with the dryness at the beginning (if you have it):
·         You can apply a tiny amount of coconut or jojoba oil to your hair after it has been washed and is dry. Simply add a few drops to your palms, rub your hands together until there is just a light sheen on your hands, and then run your hands through your hair, avoiding the roots.
NOTE: Coconut oil has a fatty acid that penetrates the hair shaft the deepest and provides the greatest benefit. Jojoba oil is most like our natural sebum and is great for hair and skin, but does not penetrate as deeply as coconut oil.
·         Wear your hair up. 
·         Or what I like to do, is to mix 1 tbsp linseed oil, ripe and mashed avocado (or banana) and aloe gel together and put it all over my head for half an hour before hand.


Dealing with the oily hair at the beginning (if you have it):
·         between no-poo washes, try a hot-water wash. It’s as easy as it sounds – simply wash your hair with the hottest water you can stand (don’t burn yourself!), then dry.
·         increase the amount of baking soda you use when you wash your hair by 1/4.
·         decrease the amount of vinegar in your conditioning solution by 1/2.
·         switch from apple cider vinegar, if using, to plain white vinegar.
·         remember, don’t apply your vinegar solution to the roots of your hair.
·         remember to rinse, rinse, rinse.
·         try using a dry shampoo, and I don’t mean any of that spray-can rubbish! Blondes and red-heads, use corn starch or arrowroot powder on your roots and brush through. This will absorb the excess oil. Brunettes, use coco-powder as you might find that corn starch or arrowroot leave your hair looking “grey”.

What happens if my scalp gets itchy/flaking?

·         decrease the amount of baking soda you are using
·         be sure you are rinsing the baking soda completely from your hair
·         do a scalp rinse with your vinegar solution to condition your scalp

My final tip would be to keep a written record of what works well for you and what doesn't. That way you can make your own recipe.

NB: If you have dry ends, try adding some coconut oil (just a little).



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